8th December 2007
Giles Coren of The Times writes:

Opened in 1703 on the hill between Bushey and Bushey Heath, it was where laden brewers' vehicles stopped for extra horses (and chains no doubt) to get up the steep hill on the journey from Watford to London. It was taken over by some shmendrick who reopened it as Snappers, a crappy fish restaurant. That went tits up. Recently, Dylan of Dylan's Restaurant in Cockfosters took it on. An appeal from me, and our local museum, to reinstate the original historically important name was accepted and it has now opened with a simple but appealing menu as a slightly posher than average pub/restaurant.